Absolute Equestrians

Developing an Independent Seat

2011-03-02T15:41:00.000-05:00

Some riders are just naturals when it comes to balance and motion, they are able to use each body part independently with little effort, while others must work very hard to obtain this ability.

One of the first and most important things riders should work on is their seat. Without a balanced seat, you will not be able to communicate properly with your horse. Far to many riders press on in the riding without having a proper seat and little emphasis is put on the continued need for exercises that will help obtain and maintain a proper seat.

Here are a few suggestions to build or refresh your riding seat.

1). Have a friend put you on a lunge line where you do not have to worry about control. You can focus 100 percent of your energy on fluid movement in your hips, shoulders, arms, ankles etc...

2). If you feel secure with your horse and basic riding skills, you might try riding without stirrups. This can help lengthen your legs to give the hip joints freedom of motion as well as help you sit more centered in the seat.

3). Regular (unmounted) exercise to strengthen your core can help with your riding. You don't have to be a body builder, focus on being flexible with ease of motion and inner strength. Consider activites like Skating, Yoga, Gymnastics, Bike Riding, Martial Arts or Swimming.

Practice ground work often and return to riding basics on occasion to refresh your skills. The more you are able to freely move each body part independently, the better you will be able to communicate with your horse.

We all age and our bodies change, so even the most experienced rider can and does benefit from constant evaluation and participation with other riders and trainers. Ask a friend, trainer or clinician to help you keep supple communication open from your seat.

Do You Need to Vaccinate for Rabies?

2010-11-06T09:47:00.000-04:00

The answer to this question is different based on the area of the country you live in. Your local veterinarian is the best person to rely on for accurate information and you should follow their advice! Only 46 percent of horses owners vaccinate their horses for rabies even when in an endemic area, THAT'S A SCARY THOUGHT!!

Rabies is fatal and if your horse has not been vaccinated, it's chances of survival are ZERO. By vaccinating your horse, you are providing a barrier against this fatal condition!

Many things people don't realize about rabies:

A. Humans can contract Rabies from their Horse
B. You Do NOT have to be bitten by the animal to contract Rabies
C. Rabies can be transmitted through eye, nasal and oral fluids
D. Rabies can look like many other illnesses
E. An Exposed Horse can take many months to show symptoms
F. People exposed to a rabid animal must go through a series of vaccinations

Become a member of "THEHORSE.COM" and watch their "RABIES" webinars, you can learn more about rabies and how serious this condition can be. Please be dilegent in keeping your animals vaccinated and always follow the advice of your Veterinarian not only for your horse(s)but for other horses and individuals that your horse may come in contact with.

The Horse | Low Heels in Horses: New Grading System and Targeted Treatment

2010-11-06T08:43:00.000-04:00

The Horse | Low Heels in Horses: New Grading System and Targeted Treatment

The Horse | Video - Understanding Foal Care

2010-10-24T11:39:00.000-04:00

The Horse | Video - Understanding Foal Care

Trust Your Professional

2010-09-06T16:00:00.000-04:00

It happens, we have all been there, things are going along wonderfully and ooops...something happens and you're searching for answers. Why, Where, How, What Do I Do, For How Long and on and on...

Well, it's time you started trusting the people in your life that you have chosen to help you with your equine care, training, shoeing or whatever.

Though it is natural for people at your stable to have an opinion and try to give advice, the only advice you should be following is that of the professional who is qualified to give it. You wouldn't ask your gardener how to fix the washing machine, so why would you ask your farrier why your horse doesn't sweat or why he coliced last week.

If the you don't feel your professional is capable of giving accurate information, diagnosis or treatment, you need to find someone you can trust to provide it! You would never continue to take your car to a repair shop where they didn't fix it or couldn't explain why it was doing what it's doing, so why would you do that to your horse??

Sometimes it is necessary to get a second or even a third opinion, just be sure the second and third party is qualified to provide the advice. Too many opinions from unqualified people can be as harmful and none at all.

Planning for Hurricane Season

2010-05-06T16:27:00.000-04:00

Yes it is almost that time of year and owning an equine facility doesn't make hurricane season anything less than stressful! We have established guidelines for storms based on intensity but I still stay on high alert from June 1st thru November 30th every year. We have all felt the lump in the throat or knot in our stomach when told the storm is likely to hit our area. Watching every developing storm, every weather forecast and keeping our fingers crossed that the big ones blow by without incident. You start questioning every little detail, frantically trying to secure your home, your family and your pets. There are no guarantees that you have or will make all the right choices and even when you think you have covered all the bases, things can go wrong.

Being proactive and as prepared as possible is a necessity when you are faced with a forecast of an inevitable approach and potential hit by a hurricane. It is important to have a plan and make arrangements prior to June 1st each year. If you board your horse, ask the facility what their hurricane policy is:

*What is the strongest storm rating they will allow horses to remain stabled at the facility?
*Does the facility evacuate horses and close the barn?
*If you have to trailer out of the area, do you have access to a trailer or shipper?
*When should you plan to evacuate your animal if they must be relocated?
*Will someone be on hand at the facility for emergency situations?
*Are horses kept inside or turned out to pasture?
*Are there alternative local facilities if your stable is not safe or if you don't have access to open pastures?

Don't be shy, ask as many questions as necessary to understand the procedures and expectation during bad weather situations. These questions and the answers that follow are extremely important in helping to keep your pet safe and reduce stress and confusion in the final preparations.
Many facilities offer hurricane boarding and accept non-refundable deposits to secure a stall for hurricane season. Be sure to make those arrangements prior to hurricane season, the peace of mind is well worth the deposit required. Don't wait to be faced with limited options when a storm is forecast to cross your path, BE PREPARED!

Cold Weather Tips

2010-01-05T13:03:00.000-05:00

Horses in the wild are able to survive because their body and mind have been accustom to climate change and the brain tells the body when to grow more hair, store fat, seek shelter, graze to create heat etc... providing necessary protection from the elements. However, domestic horses having been manipulated by people, do not have the same advantages. People clip, blanket and house horses which affects the natural instinct to deal with drastic temperature changes. Yes they can adjust somewhat and are normally comfortable at temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees. Outside this range of temperatures, people must step in to provide a reasonable alternative for keeping horses healthy and comfortable.

When temperatures exceed 80 to 85 degrees, horses should be provided with housing that offers shade and/or a fan to help with the heat. If the horse is pastured, they need to have access to shaded areas in the pasture via trees or covered shelters.

Cold weather and horses that have been body clipped:

If your horse has been body clipped in the last few weeks, you may need to provide protection when temperatures drop below 60 degrees. A light weight blanket can be used for temperatures anywhere between 40 and 60 degrees. Medium weight blankets should be considered when temperatures are expected to range between 30 to 45 degrees and a heavy weight blanket for temperatures falling below 30 degrees for a prolonged period.

Cold weather and horses with a normal coat (not body clipped):

For horses that have a normal coat and have not been body clipped, I normally do not use blankets unless the temperatures are expected to be less than 45 degrees. You can provide a light weight blanket when temperatures are between 35 and 45 degrees. Medium weight blankets for temperatures between 25 and 40 degrees and heavy weight blankets for temperatures falling below 25 degrees for a prolonged period of time.

Older horses or horses that are more sensative to the cold may be blanketed for anything below 50 degrees. Be careful to not over blanket your horse as they can get too hot and this may cause discomfort or a heat related colic situation. If unsure about over heating, you are better to let the horse be "a little cool" verses over heating. If you do not have access to a medium or heavy weight blanket, you can layer lighter blankets to accommodate the temperature range expected. In this situation, just add a layer for cooler temperatures or remove a layer when the temperatures begin to rise.

Checking Hay Quality

2009-12-27T13:01:00.000-05:00

Hay is a major part of your horses diet and nutritional needs. If you care for your own horse or board your horse, know the things to look for. If you find a reliable supplier, they may charge a little more per bale but you will know what you're getting and they will exchange any hay you may find undesirable.

Beware of door to door hay sellers and check them out before making a switch. They will try to draw you in with a slightly cheaper price per bale but many of them will be unreliable or the quality will be inconsistent. If the demo hay is not a good quality when they solicate you it's probably not going to get better once you're a customer.

Things to look for:

Color: Hay color can be deceiving and green hay doesn't always mean good hay nor does brown hay mean it is bad hay. Hay may not always have a nice green coloring and in some cases is treated with chemicals to maintain the green color. On the other side, hay left in the sun a little to long may exhibit a brown or bleached out color that doesn't affect the nutritional value or actual quality of the hay. To accurately check the hay, you should cut open a couple random bales from the shippment and check the interior quality of the hay. It should be consistent in color and not have any white or powder like film. A white film can be a sign that the hay contains mold which can be very dangerous and may cause colic. At minimum a white film may indicate the hay is very dusty which can cause irritation in the horses respiratory system.

Smell: Once you open a couple bales, smell the interior flakes. They should smell fresh and should not have any musty/moldy odor. If the hay does not smell fresh or has any musty odor, it would indicate that the hay may not have been properly dried before being baled. You should not accept any hay that you find to contain a musty/moldy odor.

Insects: There are several insects that can cause serious illness in horses when ingested. Inspect the bales for any insects or debris. If the hay contains insects, do not accept it! Most hay will contain a small amount of debris such a small rocks or sticks. It is virtually impossible for the farmer to remove every rock or twig that may be in the growing field, these things will be pulled into the bales by the baling machine, so a small amount of debris is normal.

Consistency: Hay stems should be relatively soft and seed heads short. The courser the stem and the longer the seed head, the more mature the hay was at the time of harvest. Younger hay contains more nutrients then the mature hay and if cut and baled properly will be the hay of choice. Mature hay is still a very good source of forage for horses and at certain times of the year may be the only hay source available. Hay regardless of age should contain as much leafy material as possible.

Weight: If the bales are unusually heavy, this may be an indication that the hay contains too much moisture. It can indicate the hay was recently cut and has not cured properly or the weather conditions were not ideal for harvesting the crop. Growing hay is a fine art and though the farmer will try to predict weather conditions, it is not always possible to cut and bale in ideal conditions. The farmer is not going to trash his entire crop because the rains came early. Fresh cut hay must be stored in a well ventilated area with good air circulation. Moist hay, even if not showing any signs of mold at the time of delivery, can mold very quickly and unless you can use the amount purchased in a very short period of time, you are best to avoid it.

Dust: Take a couple bales and drop firmly to the ground from about three or four feet off the ground. There may be a little dust cloud, but you should not be choking on the dust particals when the bale is dropped. If the hay contains a lot of dust, it is best to avoid it as many horses are sensative and can develope respiratory issues. If you do decide to purchase the hay with a notably dusty content, you can wet the hay before each feeding to remove some of the dust and minimize how much will be inhaled by the horse.

These are the basic things to look for to ensure quality hay for your horses. Most reputable hay dealers will not intentionally sell you bad hay as they wish to keep you as a client. They can not however inspect every bale they sell and unfortunately there are occasionally a few bales that slip through the system. Be proactive and work with your supplier to maintain the hay type and quality you desire.

Being a Good Equestrian

2009-09-20T16:39:00.003-04:00

Being a good equestrian isn't just about being a good rider. You may not be a talented rider at all, but you can still be a great equestrian. Obviously we all would like to be great at everything including our riding ability, our handling skills and our management techniques, but the bottom line is that most people are not great at everything. So, lets talk about qualities of a good equestrian.

* A good equestrian uses their talent to help others, not to criticize and judge.
* A good equestrian keeps trying even when things seem impossible.
* A good equestrian is there for a friend including at 2:00am.
* A good equestrian is one you can count on to be honest and supportive even when they don't agree.
* A good equestrian knows that not winning doesn't mean you failed.

Every equine sport is different, each very individual and unique. What you look for in a hunter many not be the same as you look for in dressage. You may not be a western rider but that doesn't mean western riding is wrong. One thing that's universal is that equestrians love their horses and they love their sport. We can all benefit from exposure to different philosophies, be open minded, not judgemental. That's not to say that there aren't people who could use more practice or guidance, but be helpful when you can be and if you can't add something positive to the occasion, then don't add anything!

Facebook | Patty Suter

2009-09-06T09:31:00.000-04:00

Facebook | Patty Suter

Staying Ahead of the Curve

2009-09-04T11:12:00.005-04:00

People looking to begin or enhance their equestrian/horse knowledge spend hours searching for resources to obtain quality information. Unfortunately, there are a lot of places that provide incorrect, incomplete or just plan out bad advice. I'm not saying every website, trainer or facility give bad information, as there are many good ones out there. I believe people who really care about good horsemanship are like sponges, soaking up as much information as possible. The problem, especially for beginners, is knowing when the information is applicable to their situation or knowing what the next step should be. Even those who consider themselves experienced equestrians can be unknowingly passing along bad information. I'm sure they wouldn't intentionally give people the wrong advice, but they are just passing along what they learned, which unfortunately may have been provided from an unreliable source. It's like domino's, one goes, the next one follows and so on... At Absolute Equestrians, we are in the process of securing quality equine professionals who will help people who have the desire to obtain a truly solid equine/horse foundation. We will cover as much as possible and be adding new information every month. Our new website will offer everything from veterinarian instructions, legal advice, training and riding videos and much more. So, please visit our website frequently and sign the guestbook or send us an e-mail so we can add you to our contact list. You'll be one of the first to realize the wonderful opportunity and have many great resources available for your equestrian needs.

Thanks for reading our blog and we look forward to being part of your horse experience!

Owning Your First Horse

2009-06-16T21:47:00.002-04:00

When you decide to own a horse, there are many things to consider. Where will it live, how much will it cost, what should you do to care for it, how often do you need to ride and on and on...

While everyone has an opinion on what's best, I think horses love the company of people and need to have regular interaction to stay mentally sound. When left to their own devises, horses will eventually revert back to a more wild or hard to handle state. So here are a few of my thoughts on things you can do for yourself and your horse so that you will both be happy.

1. As for the costs of owning a horse, I can tell you that the cost of buying the horse is usually the least of the expenses you will incur as part of ownership. You will have regular expenses which I will list as well as some occasional or unexpected costs.

Costs:

Grain - Only when needed, usually feed 2 - 3 times each day (as small amounts as possible to maintain a healthy weight).
Hay - Fed at 1 - 2 lbs of hay per 100 lbs of the horses body weight per day. Feed in increments throughout the day not all at once.
Bedding - If your horse will be stabled, you should provide bedding (straw or shavings) to cover the ground inside the stall.
Property Maintenance - Fence installation and repairs, pasture fertilizing and weed control.
Shoeing - Even if your horse is bare foot, their feet will need trimmed or shoed every 4 - 6 weeks.
Shots - Though different areas of the country have different shot schedules, I would count on at least 2 sets of shots per year.
Deworming - You need to worm your horse every 6 - 8 weeks or use a daily wormer, in which case you will do two wormings per year.
Daily Care Items - Shampoo, hoof treatments and conditioners, fly spray, brushes and anything else along these lines.
Riding Equipment - Saddle, bridle, saddle pads, helmut, riding boots and any other equipment you decide you need.
Supplements - Each horse is different but most will require electrolytes on a daily basis. Some may have additional supplement needs such as sand clear, digestive aids, etc...

Be sure to budget for the occassional unexpected vet call as they may and probably will arise.

As you can see, these expenses can add up to a substancial financial commitment as well as very demanding time requirements.

If boarding your horse at a full board facility, they will usually burden the cost of hay, grain, bedding, property maintenance and labor to clean stalls but you will still need to provide any supplements or medications your horse needs. Be sure to ask each facility for a list of what is included as part of the board. You may also be able to request a higher level of board which will include more services, worming, electrolytes etc...but this will also cost more. Having a boarding facility can make owning and caring for your horse less stressful if you can work the costs in to your budget.

2. Unless you plan to compete, there is no need to ride your horse every day. It's nice to give the horse a day or two off. If you can ride 4 or 5 days a week, that's great but I would recommend a minimum of 2 times each week.

3. If you can, spend some time just being around the horse, bathing, hand grazing and other non mounted activities can be an enjoyable activity as well as a bonding time for both of you.

4. If you are not able to keep your horse at home, boarding is a great option. There are levels of boarding and the more basic the board, the less the cost. You need to decide what your monthly budget will be, what your expectations are and then visit as many facilities as you can to see what they offer. If you decide to have pasture board for your horse, it will be the least expensive but will also mean that your horse will be out 24/7 including bad weather days. Some facilities will offer (and should offer)a covered area in the pasture where your horse can get out of the rain, wind or heat if they choose to. On the other side of the spectrum, you can also find facilities that offer elaborate facilities which might include a lot of aesthetically pleasing features that will do little to enhance the care or health of your horse. It is best to look for a facility that will offer a clean, well organized and well maintained facility. I think the care of the property and the facility is a reflection of how well you can expect your horse to be cared for. Though the financial needs to maintain a equestrian facility can be expensive, being clean and organized are free and require only a little extra effort. If someone is not able to maintain their facility, you might wonder if they will be able to provide and properly care for your horse.

5. Horses like routines, try to keep their routine consistent. If you normally feed at 7:00AM and 3:00PM, try to stay within a 30 minute time frame of that schedule. If you normally have the horse out in the afternoon, try to stick to that so the horse knows what to expect. They are less likely to act crazy or run around in a panic if they know what to expect. Horses are creatures of habit.

6. For optimum health, you should limit the horses intake of grains. Horses do much better with a diet high in hay and forage. Grazing time is a very effective way to allow for optimum digestive health. If you are boarding your horse, be careful that the facility doesn't try to convince you otherwise, usually they are just trying to save money since hay (especially in the south) can be much more expensive than grain.

7. Make sure your horse always has a fresh supply of clean water available. Water is one of the most important requirements for a horse. Without proper fluid intake horses can dehydrate very quickly. Water is also necessary to help the horse move food products (hay, grain and grasses) through the digestive system. If the horse does not have adequate water intake, they can become impacted in the digestive system (dry food products collect and harden in the intestines) which will create great discomfort, colic and possibly even death.

8. Always keep a supply of fly spray available for your horse. Flies can create an uncomfortable situation for your horse and also cause irritation to eyes, wounds etc... You should probably invest in a fly mask for your horse. This can be worn to help eliminate eye infection, watering or bacteria from flies getting into the eyes. If your horse is sensitive, you may want to purchase a mask that will also cover the ears.

9. As for yourself, always use care when managing your horse, horses can be unpredictable and easily frightened. Even the most trusted horse can spook and though maybe not intentional, can hurt you. There is no such thing as a bomb proof horse. Every horse has something that will cause them to be distracted or prevoke fear and the horses natural instinct is to get far away from anything which might be a threat.

10. Your should also use tack and equipment that is in good repair. Cleaning your tack and equipment on a regular basis will allow you to check it regularly for any broken parts or loose stitching. Using poor quality, improper or broken tack and equipment can be dangerous for you and create great risk to your safety as well as the safely of your horse.

11. If you have additional questions, please send them to me and I will do my best to answer them.

Watch Video of Pettulah - For Sale

2009-06-05T11:27:00.001-04:00

Don't be afraid of the dark, your horse isn't!

2009-06-05T09:05:00.006-04:00

Horses are very basic thinkers. In nature, they spend most of their time trying to find adequate food sources. If given the opportunity, most horses actually like variety in their diet and will seek grasses, weeds and herbs that fulfill their tastes and nutritional needs. With today's methods of confinement, horses have been restricted to limited grazing space and time so it is therefore necessary for the owner or care taker to provide the best possible alternatives for nutrition and exercise. When possible, allow for as much pasture time as possible. Consider a schedule to have horses at pasture during the night hours. These are valuable hours which your horse can utilize for improved digestion (constant food passing through the gut) and freedom of movement to keep joints and muscles active and fluid. Many horses also benefit mentally from the additional time in the pasture and show a much calmer and satisfied attitude during their working hours. In nature, being out at night is as natural as people sleeping at night. It's a basic and beneficial activity, so why force your horse to stand in a confined stall when you could allow him the benefits of this valuable time. Try it, your horse will be a much happier and healthier partner!